1880 Facts about Port and Madeira by Henry Vizetelly

156

The Vineyards and Wines of Madeira.

silver coins ■whicli the passengers from time to time threw over the steamer's side. In about a quarter of anhour we were on our way to the shore, where, owing to the surf and the steepness of the beach, oxen arehadrecourse to, to draw the boats up. Oxen, moreover, dragged our baggage on a sledge to the Custom House, while other oxen conveyed us in a basket-carriage, which slid along on runners over the paved streets, to our point of destination. Owing to its steep and peculiarly-paved roads, vehicles on wheels are never used inMadeira. . Our first excursion was to a vineyard in the occupation of the Messrs. Krohn, lying just above the little seaside hamlet of Santa Cruz, a favourite spring-time place of resort, situate some dozen miles or so eastward of Funchal, and in fall view of the Desertas group of islands. Four sun-bumt, sinewy boatmen , rowed us thither in an hour and a-half. A Httle bay, a few boats, a cluster of white houses, more or less hidden by trees, some httle cottages perched half-way up the mountain, with patches of vines, sugar-canes, and sweet potatoes planted on terraces along the sides of a ravine—these are the main features of Santa Cruz viewed from the sea. On landing we crossed the pra^a, or public promenade, planted with shady trees- then passed through a grove of laurels some forty or fifty feet iu height, and were soonascending the slope onwhichis situate the vineyard we had come to see. Like most of the vineyards of Madeira, its area is hmited, comprising merely four acres, which are walled in on all sides. Although on the slopes of a ravine, the surface has been levelled by bringing soil from other parts, so that it presents only a gradual ascent towards the farther end, where there is a pleasant country-house, planted round about with rare tropical and other trees. These comprise oleanders, brilliant in flower and rich in perfume; eriobotrya japonica, producing a yellow plum-shaped fruit which ripens in the spring; anonas, yielding the aromatic and refreshing custard apple ; guavas; flowering pomegranates, with their gorgeous scarlet blossoms; petangas, furnishing a fruit resembling the strawberry in flavour; coffee and pepper