1892 Drinks of the world

DRINKS.

66

the grape, and is used only for the finest brands. There are six of these squeezes made, each more powerful than the last ; and the result of each is, of course, inferior in quality to its predecessor, till the sixth, called the r^bkhe} is reached, which produces a coarse wine, reckoned only fit to be given to the workmen. The must begins to ferment more or less quickly, according to the temperature, in the casks, at the end of ten or twelve hours, and the process continues for a considerable time, during which the colour changes from pale pink to a light straw tint. About three months are allowed to elapse, when the fermentation stops through repeated rackings and the cold of the season. And now the real trouble of the Champagne manu- facturer begins. First, there is the blend, which varies in the case of each manufacturer. The produce of the different vineyards is mixed in enormous vats, according to the recipe in vogue in the particular establishment, and to this mixture is added, if neces- sary, a proportion of some old wine of a superior vintage. A most subtle, carefully educated, and exquisite taste is required to discern when the win^, in this crude state, has acquired the proper flavour and bouquet. Then comes the important point of effervescence — a source of much anxiety to the manu- ^ The rebeche is principally sold to people manufacturing cheap Champagnes ; by mixing with other wines of very light complexion, they give them body, and make a stuff which can be produced at a very low price.