1903 The Flowing Bowl by Edward Spencer
THE DRINKS OF DICKENS 217 vaguely, by the novelist as " spirits," and tvere, I shall ever maintain, gin, and not rum, as stated by other reviewers. The idea of putting rum on the top of "Newcastle salmon, intensely pickled," and such a monstrous (to a connoisseur in these things) salad as that furnished by Mrs. Prig, is barbaric. After an experience of the modern roadside inn, or of the " reserved lounges " of the alcohol- palaces of to-day, what can be more delightful reading than the description of the interior of the " Maypole," in Barnaby Budge ? " The very snuggest, cosiest, and completest bar that ever the wit of man devised. Such amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes ; such gleaming tankards hanging from pegs at about the same inclination as thirsty men would hold them to their lips ; such sturdy little Dutch kegs ranged in rows on shelves ; so many lemons hanging in separate nets, suggestive, with goodly loaves of sugar stowed away hard by, of punch, idealized beyond all mortal knowledge, etc. etc." Hardly an ideal landlord of the past, though, was old John Willet. A far better stamp of host was Gabriel Varden, the locksmith, who took deep draughts of sparkling home-brewedale, from a goodly jug of well-browned clay, for breakfast, and who was one of the "Maypole's" best cus tomers. Mr. Chester—whose interview with his son will remind the student of Monsieur le Mar quis's interview with his nephew, in ji Tale of Two Cities—was a judge of wine, though not given to over-indulgence in the bowl, like his bastard. Maypole Hugh ; and Lord George
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