1916 Jack's Manual by J A Grohusko (4th edition)

only as each bunch of grapes attains the advanced state described above. Sometimes, and especially in the first growths, each berry is gathered separately and more or less quickly, according to the weather. When rainy, the opera- tions are suspended and resumed when it becomes dry again. It is easy to see that quantity here is sacrificed to quality, and that the expenses of wine making, under such circum- stances, must necessarily be high. It often requires as many as six successive pickings to gather one bunch. The cost of cultivating vineyards in the Sauternes district is estimated to range from 1000 to 1200 francs per hectare, inclusive of grape- picking and purchase of casks; the yield per hectare may be roughly estimated at from 4 to 7 hogsheads, according to the vintage. Vintaged by ordinary methods, the wines would yield at least one-third more. In the superior growths, there are three selections or "tries." The first, comprising the berries which have dried somewhat after becoming over-ripe, yields what is known as "vin de tete." The second selection comprises the berries in a somewhat less advanced state and yields a larger quantity; the third includes the remainder of the grapes, which, al- though ripe, have not attained the same degree of maturity as the others; the wine pressed from it is called "vin de queue" and is relatively unimportant in quantity. The grapes are pressed rapidly, so as to prevent the wine from taking too deep a color from the skin. The must which flows from the press is at once put into casks, where the fer- mentation takes place almost immediately and lasts several weeks, the duration depending on the style of the wine and on the temperature. The quality is approximately judged by the musts, but it is only after the first racking, generally when the winter is over, that a definite opinion can be formed. Four rackings a year are necessary, sometimes five for wines of the first picking, and a daily inspection, tasting and filling of the casks, are requisite to ensure proper treatment. The classed growths are sold under their name, Chateau Yquem being the first and probably the best known. But simply as sauternes, barsac, bommes, preignac, etc., wines of the highest grade are sold and fetch high prices, the greatest care being bestowed on the small vineyards as on the large ones. Sauternes — of succeeded vintages— are delicate in flavor, of a pale golden color, mellow, rich, bordering on sweetness, and have a fine, agreeable bouquet; they are hygienic, not heady, and merit the description of perfection in white wines. Dr. Mauriac, of Bordeaux, says in one of his works: "The great Sauternes white wines, which are of a relatively high alcoholic strength, are both tonic and stimulating; consumed moderately, they are invaluable to convalescents after a severe illness or when it is necessary to revive an organism attenu- ated by high fever, hemorrhage, or long fatigue.

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