1930 The Savoy Cocktail Book

CHAMPAGNE

and particular care is taken to prevent the red colouring matter of the skin from ' staining ' the wine. Only the first pressings are used to make the best wine. The mass of crushed grapes remaining on the pan of the press (and from which the firstjuice has been e.xtracted) are then re-pressed, and a juice known as ' deuxiemes tailles ' is obtained. It is from the ' deuxiemes tailles ' that the cheap Champagnes are produced. The first juice is known as ' must' and this is run into huge vats, where it remains and settles for at least two days. It is then barrelled, clear and free from rough sediment. Now commences the natural fermentation of the ' must,' the sugar contained in it being converted into alcohol and carbonic acid gas, and a further sediment, called ' lees ' begins to settle. By December, the low temperature normally stops • the fermentation, and it is here that an early cold snap, or a late winter, are extremes that must have considerable effect upon the quality of the eventual wine. As a matter of fact, the statement " eventual " wine is perhaps not too accurate, as thei-e are quite a few people who consider Champagne very palatable at this particular stage. When one speaks of " Natural" Champagne, one refers to the wine at this period of its preparation. This " Natural " Champagne must eventually possess a sediment, as the fermentation is not yet complete, and the return of warmer weather will lead to a re-commencement of this process. The bulk of the produce, however, is carried several stages further before finally reaching the outer world and its lucky consumer.