1934 Harry Johnson's new and improved Bartenders' Manual

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cabinet-maker, whether he wants the box to contain eight, ten or twelve bottles. The ice-box containing the broken or shaved ice should also have an extra bottom made of wood, in order that neither the true bottom nor the ice-piek should be injured by contact with one another. The wood bottom should be per forated, so that the drainage and lees may run off readily. All the bottles in use should always be kept closed with good corks, and covered with nickel or sliver-platedmountings. The face of the bench should be decorated with good cabinet-work, in order to cover the rough material which is generally used, and, fur- 'thermore, the legs or supports should be "turned," instead of the wide boards generally seen, for the rea son that more room is obtained, cleaning is easier and the effect is naturally more pleasing to both the eyes of proprietor and customer. The floor underneath the working bench should be kept scrupulously clean, nothing being placed there except a fancy waste pail for each station. A handsome box of the same ma terial as the cabinet work, lined with copper or other proper metal, is to be placed on the floor underneath the bench, for the purpose of placing empty bottles in it. The box-lining will save much labor and pre vent accumulations of "leavings." Additionally, every bar systematically arranged should have a couple of boxes made of the same material as the cabinet work, to be placed on the floor under the bench as a receptacle for the corks. Every bench should have the tubes in the liquor box, and exact measurements should be taken, allowing for the width of the bottles as well as the space occupied by each tube. For instance, if the liquor box is to contain ten bottles of four inches diameter each, the box must necessarily be more than forty inches in length. Formerly, the tubes were made of wood which, continually damp, would, in the course of time, give out a bad odor. I have, therefore, in-