1936 Shaking in the 60's by Eddie Clarke

Passing south through Dijon, one quickly approaches the vineyards that have brought fame to France. The appetite is prepared by the little-known wines ofFixin and Brochon. Good, well-balanced wines here and they pay for keeping in the bottle. A Crebillon vintage 1949 from Broehon, drunk in 1961, was delightful; quite robust with a lovely perfume. The really noble vineyards begin at Gevrey; the parish that has had the honour for more than a century ofaffixing its name to the most celebrated vineyard of Ghambertin, which in point of fact, is divided into two distinct parts, Ghambertin and Clos de B^ze. The wines here are very powerful, dark crimson,full-bodied and perfectly balanced, and with the aroma of the mignonette, they surely are entitled to the crown ofBurgundy. Several neighbouring vineyards have the right to add Ghambertin to their names,i.e., Charmes, Griottes, Mazis, Ruchottes, Ghapelle, Mazoyeres and Latricieres, hence Charmes-Chambertin,etc. Morey St. Denis is next to hand; its wines have an excellent record, but in the main are not very well known. No doubt, the fact that for some time its best wines were sold under the names of its illustrious neighbours, Gham bertin and Musigny,tended to keep the Moreysin the dark, but even her regional wines demand respect when en countered.Theyare very reasonably priced considering they are domiciled in a very expensive area. The Clos de Tart vineyard under its single owner, J. Mommessin, rates very high indeed and has produced some outstanding vintages.A soft wine with great finesse and keeping power which,with Clos de la Roche,Glos St. Denis and Glos des Lambrays form the spearhead around here. Partofthe Bonnes-Mares plantation can also be claimed, but as the larger proportion is in neighbouring Chambolle-

192