1936 Shaking in the 60's by Eddie Clarke

*■

' '

- V O'JJJ,

Another book by Eddie Clarke, written in his usual humorous vein and probabably the most comprehensive book on drinks and drinking yet published. "Shaking in the 6o's" is a complete guide to entertaining; it should be in every modern home and will also prove invaluable to all those concerned in the 'service of drinking'. Subjects covered include the mixing of all types of drinks; some 200 cocktail recipes; parties at home;storage, tasting, assisted in this publication by his pal Mac,(William S. McCall) who has drawn the excellent cartoons and maps, and this combined effort has produced a book well worth having. serving, and articles on wine. Eddie has been

V'-

f

V:

m-;:\

n

.% t i. •

• C 'v

;- i Jt J1,' it'• V k

»

/

/

%

ll*

1 ...1"^

SHAKING IN THE 60's

BY THE SAME AUTHOR

Shaking with Eddie Shake Again with Eddie Practical Bar Management

t2SEid2<

The Hangover Family Portrait

{Left to Right) Back Row: Pernod Drip,John Collins, Brother Tom, Big Hangover, Diki Diki, Doctor,Paddy.

Centre Row: Lady Amber,Jack Rose, Alexander, Marco Polo, President. Front Row: Slim Jane, Old Etonian, Bobby Bums, Club Rose, Slim Jim. {Interloper - No relation).

SHAKING

IN THE

60's by

Eddie Clarke

Designed and illustrated by William S. McGall

Firtt Published October 1963

Ckipyright ® by Ck>cktail Books Ltd.

Published by Cocktail Books Ltd.,23 Albemarle Street, London, W.i and printed by SalTron Hill Printers Ltd., 151 Saffron Hill, London, E.C.i

This book

is

dedicated

to

all imbibing lovers

The Ode to the Soak

"The horse and mule live thirty years. They never drink light wine and beers.

The goat and sheep at twenty die, With ne'er a taste ofScotch or Rye.

The dog at fifteen cashes in.

Without the aid ofRum or Gin.

The cat on milk and water thrives. But then at twelve completes nine lives.

The modest, sober, bone dry hen, Lays eggs for years, and dies at ten.

Most birds at five years pass away, Far,far from alcohol they stay.

nN w I//^

The flies but few days stay on earth. They never know the Cocktail's worth.

All animals are strictly dry, They sinless live and swiftly die.

But, sinful, ginful, rum-soaked men. Survive for three score years and ten.

m

Whilst some of us, but mighty few. Stay pickled till we're ninety two."

' I f

i

,

Contents

page

"The Ode to the Soak"

Preface

About Me 15 Talking Cocktails [History, etc., ofCocktails).... 19 Cocktail Classifications[MixedDrinks) 23 Cocktail Courage[How to run a Party) 31 Equipment 3^ Be a Good Mixer[How to Mix) 47 Harmony ofBlending [Correct Blending) 51

Glassware

57

Tasty Bits on Toast

63

Health Service

67

ASpotofGlobe-Trotting

World) 73

Eddie's Creations[Cocktails)

83

Shake and Enjoy [Cocktails) 89 For Hosts to Charm and Beauty [Cocktails)....too Ladies Only [Cocktails) 106 Brother Allan's Concoctions[Cocktails) 111 Happy Daze[Long and Short Drinks) 114

page

Cupsand Punches {ColdSection)

123

Cups and Punches {Hot Section)

129

Recipes of100 years ago

137

Non Alcoholic Cocktails

143

Fancy Liqueurs

146

Wine as you Dine

149

Ladies and Gentlemen—The Toast is

151

A Full Stock for the Bar

155

Enquire Within

159

Cheerios in Other Countries

165

Party Log

166

About Wines

175

Vintage Years

176

Storage of Wines

179

Decanter if you must

182

Enjoyment of Wines

184

Burgundy,Clarets,etc

191

Bordeaux

201

Loire

205

Champagne

207

Cotes du Rhone

209

Jura

211

page

Hock

211

Moselle

213

Alsace, Cyprus, Italy

214

Sherry

217

Port

219

Brandy

221

Armagnac • • -223 The"Who's Who and What"ofWines,Spirits, Liqueurs, etc 227

Index

252

-.■/'■'■'.V'sr 74 ,M , I; J •;,

About me!

Before we start to discuss the main theme ofthis book, that is, the most pleasant forms of drinking, and before you delve too deeply into the mysteries of what the Cock tail Shaker may hold, may I first introduce myself? My name—you will find on the cover. My experience—some thirsty—sorry—thirty years behind bars—not the iron type,the more attractive ones which youjust lean against, and drink. Briefly to span the years. Myfifteenth birthday already found me at sea, with every intention of making it my career. Although the original idea was to study navigation and become a ships' officer fate deemed it otherwise, and

15

after three years as a deck hand I became a ships' bar tender. During the years that followed, life became more and more interesting. What could have been better for an undecided, adventurous youth than travelling around the world in such wonderful ships as, the "Empress of Scotland", "Empress of Australia" and the "Empress of Britain , meeting countless famous people and having the great honour and privilege of mixing drinks for such Royalty as the Duke of Windsor, the late Duke of Kent and the Duke of Gloucester. During the summer months, the "Empresses", these grand ladies ofthe sea, ploughed their way gracefully back and forth on the mail run between Southampton and Canada.Butthe wintersfound us cruising through tropical waters, and to summarise my own travels, they consisted amongst other voyages of four World, three West Indies, three Mediterranean and three Norwegian cruises. In 1934 I came ashore and went as head bartender to the Berkeley Hotel,whereI worked until April 1936.Then, bitten again by the travel bug, I went over to the first Cocktail Bar to ever be opened in the Emerald Isle, that which was installed in the Royal Hibernian Hotel,Dublin. At the end ofthe year I returned to London and took over as head bartender at the London Casino until New Year s Eve, 1938. Then in the same capacity I went to the Savoy Hotel. But grave events were making history and the dark clouds of war were gathering—so, in 194® like many others, I exchanged my shaker for a gun,andjoined the Royal Artillery.Spanning the yearsfrom 1940onwards, and I acknowledge with thanks that luck had been on my side.This broughtwith it manyconsolationsfor I hadsome howstruggledfromthedepthsoftheranksand havingproved myself neither hero nor coward, I emerged from H.M.

16

Forces as a Gunner Captain. The war being over I then joined the seething masses and became one of the normal ingredients thrown back into civilian life. Within two weeks I was back with my old pal, the "Shaker", and in charge of the Cocktail Bar at the Royal Clarence Hotel, Exeter. Confidence restored, like Dick Whittington I again ventured into the City of London and took over at the Albany Club where I remained until Christmas bells rang out in 1953. There would not be room in this book to list the personalities and celebrities who lingered at this Bar during seven very happy years. It was at that time the meeting place of the famous. And most memorable of all was the visit of H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, and on another occasion. Lord Louis Mountbatten. But time marched on, and events kept pace. Early in January 1954 I opened my own place—The Albemarle Club in the heart of London's Mayfair. This ambition at last achieved was marred by sadness at the closing, within a few months, of the famous old Albany Club. But it can now safely be said that to some extent the Albemarle in its Regency House surroundings has taken the place ofthe Albany and has grown up to be the new rendezvous for the personalities of the day. One can always find mingled together at the bar celebrities from all careers in life, probably including an English cricketer, a journalist, a Harley Street physician, or an actress. In the restaurant, enjoying the really excellent cuisine, there will be perhaps membersofParliament,chatting quietly and earnestly over lunch, or a prominent actor reading his script at a corner table. Laterin theevening atdinner before the theatre there may be a family party, or even a star or television person ality having a quick ^upper before appearing themselves. Towards midnight the restaurant echoes with the happy

17

talk ofpeople who seem perfectly content,and Fleet Street is just near enough for overworked editors and leading journalists to enjoy a steak and then relax with their own nightcap after just having put their newspaper to bed. Thus then, with introductions over, let us now get down to the serious object of this book, which is to explore the ways and means oftickling up the appetite, or to quench that fiery thirst—perhaps, even to seek a cure to soothe that aching brow.

i8

Talking Cocktails

Fortunately my wandering round the world gave me a lot ofscope to collect all types of odd recipes—and in the following pages I am submitting quite a few for your interest and delectation. Combined with them aresome old favourites which have withstood the test of time and remain as popular today as they were during the exotic Cocktail Thirties. No doubt you have wondered many times who was the inventor of the first Cocktail. You are not alone in these wonderings, because I have given the matter a lot of thought. Historians, as all schoolboys know,are really dry as dust merchants, so they have not bothered to record who it was and we are very much in the dark. It could have been the Incas or ancient Egyptians, or even the

19

mysterious secret or some long ago Chinese—but fret not, dear reader, I give you two possible stories or origin. The first comes from Mexico—quite a long while ago, during the time when the country had a king, and a very wise one at that, wise in the affairs ofstate, wise also in the knowledge of wine and men. Life had been a little tricky oflate, and one lunchtime amidst a fanfare of bugles and headed by an American General, a military mission rode up to the palace. Things were very awkward and it was touch and go whether cannons and other weapons of war would open up to blast all and sundry. Fortunately the wise old king had foreseen the difficulties and decided on a second front, bringing out his most secret weapon which was a particular blend of local brew, and truly a very potent mixture. But that was not all! Remember,the king also knew all about men—specially visiting American Generals,so with the touch of genius he had his beautiful daughter Xoctel to serve the drinks. Needless to say from there on discussions progressed much more smoothly, and the general departed to leave the king, daughter and subjects to live happily ever after. The story has a sequel because shortly after, when the general returned to his native land, his mind was still

20

fresh with the memory ofthat pleasantinterlude in Mexico. Unfortunately one night whilst asleep he carelessly uttered "Xoctel", but he excused himself by claiming it was the name ofthe drink and not the beautiful princess. That is the end ofthe story but it could be the answer to how "Xoctel" became Cocktail. Who's to argue? The principals are not around any more. My second story dates back to the year about 1870— somewhere along the seaboard coast round 'Frisco way, where saloons and gamblingjoints were the foremost spots of entertainment. There was a lady at that time who owned a very prosperous tavern. Apart from her striking personality and equally striking figure, her other main feature of attraction was her skill at mixing a secret con coction from the various liquors ofthat day. Unfortunately the real love in her life had been thwarted. She had fallen hook,line and sinker for a young local farmer who was famed from near and far for his breeding of fighting cocks. Here was a woman scorned! And as the reader knows, no wrath is such. Thus it came to pass on one dark and stormy night that all those pre cious fighting birds mysteriously disappeared. The angry young mansearched the countrysidein vain,but hethawed a little and condescended toaccepttheinvitation to a dinner party a few nights later given by the tavern hostess for several ofher friends. Needless to mention the main course was roast chicken,and our hero unbeknowingly atesome of his own famous cockerels. The meal ended in great spirits and the guests were led into an adjoining room where, dis played on every available shelf,were bottles and bottles of the concocted blend ofliquors. The bottles were decorated with colourful arrays made from the tail feathers of the once fighting cocks. The amusement was delirious, and as the night wore on it became hilarious with constant cries

21

for "another cocktail" echoing and re-echoing around the

room. I cannot say whether there was a happy ending to the story. Did the lady of the tavern successfully manage to capture the heart of the young farmer? Who knows? Anyway,it is another good story—and it could have been the birth ofthe cocktail, so why not take your pick? Let us now go a step further and delve a little into the art of mixing, because so many misguided characters think that the way to cocktail success is to pour liberally into a shaker the contents from any bottle at hand which contains either a pretty looking liqueur or some other liquid fire, then after some acrobatic antics in shaking to seiye the devil's brew to some poor unsuspecting human. Should such a character be allowed to run amok, life would befairly dangerousfor the innocent adventurer who is going through the initiation stages of cocktail drinking. Instead then of learning the hard way as above, and ruining one's health,let us seek the correct way to embark on this pleasant pastime. And our first step into the un known must be to learn the classification and make up of these delicious nectars.

22

r '

Classification

Cocktail

Ifit is a question ofhow many mixed drinks there are, do not worry about it, because they run into astronomical figures—roughly to my knowledge some 8,000. But at least two thirds ofthem may be ruled out as unfit for the delicate human constitution. They may be mixed, then used as a powerful detergent for destroying an army of germs down some evil smelling drain. These potions are generally the invention ofsome cocktailcrank, or a sadist bartender, with a grudge against mankind and therefore wishing to outdo the potentialities ofthe dreaded H bomb.

23

Having completed this drastic pruning, we can gather up what is left, and sort them out into their various blood groups, so that we may see exactly where and what their position is in the sacred ritual of drinking. First then, and in alphabetical order, we move to the stage of:

Mixed Drinks and their Definitions

Aperitifs The whole object of this drink is to tickle up the hunger glands and thereby sharpen the appetite—should look attractive, be short, and very or fairly dry. These drinks are stirred in a mixing glass to make them appear crystal clear (i.e. Martini, Man- hatten, Gib or Dubonnet, etc.). Cobbler An attractive looking cool drink for the summer. Containing sherries or ports, liqueurs,spirits,fruitjuices. Served in a wine goblet glass containing crushed ice, and decorated with fresh fruit in season. Will make the hottest place in the sun seem like a shady nook by a mountain stream. Cocktails Covers a multitude of short, iced cold and perfectly blended drinks.Flavoursome,with out having anyingredient predominant.The drier variety come under the aperitifs; they will be stronger, respond more quickly to the sound of the dinner gong. The sweeter

24

type ofcocktail may be drunk after meals,as well as before. They will mostly contain liqueurs which have excellent digestive qualities (i.e. Stinger, Classic, Sidecar, Brandy Crusta).

Collins A tall effervescent, iced drink, containing spirits, sugar and lemon or lime juice. Served in a glass of about 14 oz. Very re freshing drink at any time, especially after a heavy night before or a strenuous game of tennis, golf or cricket. Cooler Same type of drink as the Collins' family. True to its name, a long well iced cooling summer drink. Has a base ofspirits (includ ing sloe gin) and sugar,lemon,ice and soda. Serve in a 14 oz. glass.

Cordials Continental. Correct name which embodies all liqueurs and other sweetened aromatic spirits, but in England we are apt to confuse it with non-alcoholic fruit squashes.

Crustas The ideal concentrated summer drink, decorated with fruit and lemon peel. Served in a frosted sugar rimmed glass, fairly tall (about 6 oz.). Drink is well shaken with ice and contains spirits, liqueurs and fruitjuices and nutmeg.

25

Cups

A beverage of wines,flavoured with liqueurs and fruits, usually served in a punch bowl or pitcher, well iced and garnished with fruit.

Another name for the Highball type of drink, usually served in a tumbler, with spirits, sugar or grenadine, fruit juices and soda water.

Daisies

Egg Nogs Just the right sort of long nourishing morning drink, when the smell of egg and bacon is hard to take, especially ifserved on a tray carried by an enormous pink elephant. Contains egg, milk, spirits, sugar and nutmeg.

Concentrated "Daisies" with less liquid and more spiritual body.

Fixes

A fairly long drink, and effervescent. Con taining spirits, fruitjuices,sweetening and a mineral water. Some contain white of egg, some the yolk, some the lot minus the shell.

Fizzes

Concentrated egg nogg, without the milk. Very good health giving properties for all types ofinvalids.

Flip

26

An after dinner drink ofliqueur,served in a cocktail glass over crushed ice. Creme de Menthe is the most popular. A long effervescent drink served in a tumbler or a large goblet glass containing spirit, cracked ice and a mineral water. A long cold drink,favoured by the Colonels of Old Virginia, featuring fresh crushed gai-den mint,bourbon or rye whisky,crushed ice, and served in a frosted glass, decorated with peach or sprigs of mint. Popular American name for serving any of their alcoholic beverages over cubes of ice. Serve in a 6-8 oz. glass. One of England's very own and oldest drinks, can be traced back for several hun dred years to the Saxon Kings. Sometimes these days it is simply mixed in a glass, or more elaborately at the table, in a large punch-bowl, and served in individual glasses. Could be a hot or an iced drink, containing either wine, spirits, beers, cider, fruit juices, tea or coffee, sugar and spices, or anything else there is at hand. A most wonderful drink for a party.

Frappe

Highball

Julep

On the Rocks

Punch

A long effervescent drink made in a tumbler, containing spirit, juice, rind of half a lime and soda water.

Rickey

27

Sangaree Similar drink to a Cobbler.

Set-up All the makings of a specified drink, except the spirits. For example, in the Old Fashioned, crushed sugar and angostura, ice and fruit decoration.

Shrubs Special recipes madefor bottling,containing spirits, fruit juices and sweetening. The longer it is kept the more headaches per bottle.

Sling

A long drink ofthe Collins type,can contain mineral water or fresh water,some varieties include liqueurs.

Smashes Smaller versions ofa mintjulep.

Sours Have an essential sharp and cleaning effect on the jaded palate and bring freshness back to the smoked dried tongue.A medium size drink, containing spirit, lemon or lime juice, sweetening, sometimes bitters and white ofegg.Should be well shaken with ice.

Swizzle Shaved iced drink, well agitated with a swizzle stick, contains spirits (generally rum) sweetening and bitters.

28

Toddy A really warming drink on a cold day, made with boiling water (or hot milk). Contains spirits, lemon,sugar and spices.

Zombie Very potent drink, containing several high grades of rum,served in a special tall glass containing fruit juices, sugar and crushed ice.

Zooms Another of the hot drinks, of spirits, honey, cream and boiling water.

29

♦

Cocktaii Courage

"Let's give a Cocktail Party next Friday": thus spoke the big business husband,and as far as he was concerned, the matter wasjust as settled as having said to his secretary, "send a letter Miss Jones, and say 'yes' The newly wed hostess, smiles sweetly, murmers"Yes, dear", and hastily retreats into the sanctuary of the kitchenette—and in there as the days to Friday pass swiftly by, her hair turns from a rich auburn into a bewitching snoWy white, whilst all the time she ponders, worries and prays, that she will not fail her life's partner in this so vital a test.

31

Pity this poor harassed young hostess, for to worry in advance is surely the path to disaster, but tackled in a calm and civilised manner the party would go with a swing,and the only worry in the future would be to find a good enough excuse to have another. Let us help the uninitiated into this favourite way of crashing into society, be it Mayfair or the quaint little village where one wants to get on friendly terms with the local"thoroughbreds".It doesn't matter about geography. The rules are all the same! Let us see how Madame Experience will rise to such an occasion. Unhurriedly she will make out the list of 50 guests,so that they will be notified in good time. Then she will send off smart but neat invitation cards, paying particular attention to the date and time ofthe party—the latter should be discreetly plain (e.g. 6.30 p.m. until 8 p.m.). It will give her a little wedge to hurry out lingering guests when they see the bartender putting away the bottles, etc.,just after zero hour. Madame Experience then pays attention to the room for the party. She knows she has invited just the right number of guests to allow them to move freely with a certain amount ofcomfort. She remembers earlier parties when people were packed into this very room. The whole thing had been marred by the numerous squeals of lady guests as rugby-like charges emptied the contents of glasses over expensive dresses.Then afterwards,her carpets resembling the aftermath ofBank Holiday on Hampstead Heath, were in such a state that it meant almost a com plete renewal. The room must be ventilated, otherwise our hostess knows there will be more corpses on her hands caused through the effects of the smoke-laden atmosphere, than from the kick of her special cocktails.

32

Should the weather be cold then there will be a nice warm welcome ready in the shape of additional heating round the room,easily available for switching offwhen the party warms itself up. Also it will be an added amenity when switched on later, to roast out the guests who are overstaying their welcome. There will be a few seats round in which the elderly, sick or social wallflower can rest awhile. The lighting has received careful attention. It is soft, and gives off a mellow and restful effect which will aid the guests to relax. Our hostess knows that bright harsh lighting is hard on make-up,and gloomy lighting will not be in keeping with the gay party spirit. Now comes the problem of where she will serve the drinks. Madame Experience favours a little place tucked awayjust outside the party room. The kitchenette is ideal because the Mixologist has everything he wants round him:running water,ice, clean glasses, etc. Also it rules out any party pest taking up permanent residence at the bar counter—which is the case when the serving is done in the actual room. These particular bodies are oblivious to the comfort or needs of others, their sole ambition in life seeming to be to drink as much, by as few, in as short a space of time as possible They are luckily creatures of greed and whilst they are flicking their cigarette ash all over the array of cocktail cherries and sliced fruit, then stubbing the ends out amongst the olives and nuts, they will drink all that is put before them, which will give an experienced blender a chance to get them to "down" a special. They will then depart for home nice and early. It is always strange how the best mannered person in their own homes will behave when they come to hers for a party. They become careless crushers of cigarettes on carpets, sideboards or even on the grand piano. Thus to try and bring a touch of self-consciousness to these

33

vagrants, ashtrays are adorning every conceivable table and shelfin the room. The battleground now set up accordingly, the hostess turns her attention to the refreshment side. There will be a certain amount of blotting paper, and a careful selection of canapes, chips, olives and gherkins scattered on small plates round about. And to add the touch of generosity, small goblets containing cigarettes will also be placed on convenient tables or shelves. (It is better this way as it is easier to watch a guest fill his cigarette case from the glass goblets,than to catch him slippingapacketinto his pocket.). Let us return to the V.I.P.—The Bar. There will be plenty of room for the "Mixer" behind it, also a good supply of ice, and the budget for the amount of glasses required is two per person. This should be ample because a guest loathes to relinquish his grip on an empty glass until a fresh drink is brought along. In regard to the actual liquor stock,ifit is to be seen by the guests the choice will be those of the best brands otherwise the next day,if her guest's hangover persists, he will tell all her friends that the reason is because he was fed on "hootch" the night before. Not a very nice boost to her prestige. Therefore a slogan well worth remembering is that"a cocktail is only as good asits poorest ingredient". What about staff? Our hostess will engage a good professional bartender for the evening. Her favourite club or hotel bar will always gladly recommend someone. It saves moneyin the end,also endless worry.For remember ing the first time she tried mixing the drinks herself, all her guests were sadly neglected, and half of them were like camelslookingforadrinking oasis.Then there wasthe other party when she let the family friend, good old Jack, tend the bar. His ego became so inflated trying to gain the repu tation of being the hit ofthe party with his terrifying con-

34

coctions that her guests will probably be living with pink elephants for the remainder of their lives. So now it's settled. An experienced barman will watch her flock carefully, and will adjust the strength of drinks accordingly as the evening progresses. Also there will be two waitresses for the 50 guests. Theirjob will be to hand round the cocktails and various bits and pieces, and her old faithful "daily" is installed behind the scenes to ensure a steady flow of clean glasses. Now a little thought as to what she will give her guests to drink. There will be supplies for the gin and tonic, whisky and soda diehards, and a few bottles of dry and medium sherry, not forgetting the fruit juice for the sick, slimming and unsociable. Before deciding on a particular blend of cocktail she will firstly consider the time of the day. If it is an afternoon affair then drinks for leisurely consumption will be given—like Cobblers, Collins, Rickeys, etc., and not shortsnappy types as for an evening party. Next she will consider the type of guests that are expected, because there will be the champions of the dry cocktail, and to these stalwarts the merest sip of a sweet concoction will compel them to pull a face like a schoolboy taking castor oil, whilst the lover of sweet flavours will clutch his throat in agony as though being rasped with the roughest sandpaper, at the very sight ofthe purest gem of the dry collection. Therefore the cocktails chosen must suit both camps, and the easiest way is to give two contrasting types, one very dry for the Martini character, and another for the sweet-tooths, which comes from the fruitier section, such as a Bronx or a White Lady. The drinks will look attrac tive but not too coloured or highly flavoured. Should the party run to champagne cocktails, then the glasses will be prepared beforehand and into each glass

35

will go a small cube of sugar, slightly moistened with angostura, then a slice of orange will be added, so that with the champagne on ice all that is left to be done when the guests arrive is to open up the bottles, fill the glasses and add a dash of brandy. (The same process can be adopted with cups, punches and noggs—these may all be well mixed up in advance, but leave the ice out until the last possible few minutes,then add a good sized block and stir it up. The usual practice is to serve "cups"from glass jugs but punches and noggs look much better and more attractive from "ye olde punche bowle". One thing to watch with the cups and punches which contain slices of fruit is to cut the portions of fruit in fairly large slices so that they can be retained in the original container and not poured into the guests' glasses with the drink.). Now Madame Experience is ready to throw open the door and let her guests arrive—directly the formal greetings are over, a tray of mixed drinks is presented— the choice of which one is left to them, and provided the drink is good and satisfies them, they will seldom change. The problem of what to drink is therefore settled for the rest of the evening. Now watch the cocktail magic as its mellowing effect makes even the stuffiest unbend. Mark how their tongues will wag and how for a short while at least they will become human. The first couple ofrounds of cocktails must be tiptop, not with the intention of getting rid of her guests early, but with the thought in mind that the first drink is always the best, and it is the first step to getting the party going. Her experienced eye will be watching the waitresses making sure they are quickly off the mark to each new arrival, and that glasses are fairly constantly charged, between intermissions of a few mouthfuls ofcanapes. The mention of liquid contents reminds us that she

36

will not frown if the bartender is only filling the glasses about three-quarters full. He knows that cocktail parties cause careless hands, and a glass filled to the brim does not give a shaking hand a sporting chance to raise it intact to lips when the eyes are resting elsewhere. By the way bartender, pass that shaker round here, so that"Mrs. Newly Wed"can sample some ofthat cocktail which will give her the courage to make a success of her party in the same way as Madame Experience.

37

Equipment

Fashion in bar equipment has changed little over the years. Once in a while a new gimmick cocktail shaker is introduced, and for a while it fills the desired need of new presents at Christmastide. But long before another year comes along they are used to better advantage as a container for displaying flowers, or a receptacle in which to keep collar studs, buttons and bows.Thus then, without further ado, we move into the buying market and select tools with which to dig the foundations of our cocktail

success.

We shall need the following:

Two silver plated, or chromium cocktail shakers holding approximately one pint. Be sure to write two shakers on your wanted list for wedding presents, or any other such gift- receiving occasions, as you will need one for delicate drinks,and the other for ingredients containing high flavours, i.e. rums, or pernod, etc. Be sure all shakers are well

38

washed directly after use, then thoroughly dried inside, because if a wet shaker is left aside until the next party a chemical reaction will set in, and will leave a green poisonous deposit (verdigris), which, al though it may resemble Creme de Menthe in looks is a very dangerous ingredient to any cocktail. Beware also of cheap alloys sometimes used for cocktail shakers. These are dangerous in other ways. The metal has a bad reaction on most acid fruit juices and it will give a most unpleasant taste to the drink. One large cocktail shaker. Save up and buy this. It is well worth-while when mixing the same drink for a crowd. It is like filling a car up with juice at the beginning ofa long run instead ofstopping at every garage en route! One Boston type cocktail shaker. Plated or chrome, holding approximately one quart. This type is for mixing egg noggs, flips, sours and fizzes, etc. These drinks require more shaking than other blends and therefore more shaking space inside the shaker, for which the Boston allows. Take the precaution when using this particular type ofshaker ofpressing the two halves firmly together, then wrap a ser viette round it, because after constant use

39

it has a nasty babit of parting amidships, and a bath in public with egg nogg founda tion is rather a let down to one's ego, and a bikini isn't exactly a party dress, unless under a mink coat. There is the real American made Boston which is much easier to use. One half is of strong glass, which fits well down inside and at an angle into a larger half which is of stainless steel. Two mixing glasses. For using to stir the clear aperitifs and other such stimulants to the digestive organs. These pieces ofequipment are fairly fragile, so always remember to stir and not pound as though preparing a saucepan of potato puree—these drinks are delicate and they bruise easily. Four bitter decanter bottles, with sprinkler stoppers. One to be used for each of the following bitters: Angostura, Orange, Peach and Pernod. When not in use it is advisable to insert a cherry stick into the nozzle of the sprinklers; it prevents those little pests called "bar flies" from getting in. (This does not mean the human type,for the bodies ofthese valiant drinkers are simply swept up with the rubbish in the morning.).

40

Six bar spoons. Always ensure that these long type spoons, have the small flat disc at the handle end which can be used as a "muddler". These long spoons are an asset at a party.They give the playful old'un a useful thing with which to drop small chips of ice down the low cut dresses of the young 'uns.

Strainers. The special bar type should be bought with detachable wire spring rims, as they adjust themselves accordingly and fit perfectly into all makes ofshakers and mixing glasses.

Corkscrew. A decent one, with a comfortable handle. Preferably a good lever type which will shift stubborn corks. The small cheap or the gimmick corkscrew will seldom make a decentjob ofextraction. Invariably it breaks a cork (or the back of whoever is trying to pull the cork out) to pieces. Pair oflime "tweezer squeezers". Similar in principle to a large pair of pliers with a strainer platform, and really the only effective method of extracting the juice from these small citrus fruits.

41

Two crown cork openers. These are things that always start wandering off in the midst of a party, and all males with bulging pockets are under suspicion. The only way to avoid this, is to tie openers by a length ofstring to the table leg, or your own,or the one belonging to your favourite guest. Three spirit measures. The size, either,5,6 or 7 out. The large one for yourself, the next size for your best friend, the smaller for the Vicar if he has come along. This is a longish and round handled wooden tool generally made from Lignum- vitae. It is used for pounding up, with the flat end, either sugar and mint for juleps or sugar and Angostura for "Old Fashioned", and other mixtures ofa similar character. It can always be given to the baby to cut its teeth on. A fruit knife, a fruit squeezer, fork and cutting board, also a lemon peeling gadget. Some useful amenities, the latter particu larlyso,forit cuts thin strips oftheactualrind without a lot of pith.

\ One muddler.

42

Ice crusher. For the purpose of producing finely ground ice for juleps and similar drinks. Failing this piece ofequipment,a heavy canvas bag and a wooden mallet is perfectly suitable, but find a cleaner foundation than the doorstep to do the hammering on. P.S. Keep the mallet handy at the party. It is always useful for tapping the knuckles ofyour guests who are trying to equip their own bars at home at the expense of your own.

One ice pick. Always an added piece or armoury to the above, in case the said guest is already turning away.

Ice bowl and tongs and one ice scoop. It is bad manners to handle things, even if wearing mittens. Anyway, the ice will give you chilblains.

Swizzle stick. A natural product of the West Indies. It consists of the dried stem of a plant which has radiating branches. The stem is twirled rapidly between the palms of the hands, causing the forked branch ends to whisk up a perfect mixture to a drink.

43

(r^ Two decanters.

A good heavy cut glass decanter will always enhance a vintage port,and the other can be used for something less valuable (probably pickled onions) until a friend makes you a present of another bottle of port after he has drunk all your best one. You can re member which one to give him when he calls again. Note the decanters should be of clear glass, thereby showing off the wine to its best advantage. Directly after use decanters should be rinsed out. Do not use anysoap powders orsoda during the process. Should the decanter be badly stained it can be cleaned by shaking a handful of small shot in it—but you are not advised to fire a twelve bore rifle into it. Special champagne stopper. Saves the opened bottle going flat as it prevents the effervescence escaping—it may last from one New Year's Eve to the next. Pair ofchampagne cork pliers. The only effective tool for removing stubborn champagne corks—grip the cork firmly, then call in the family dentist. He has the knack for removing such obstinate things. Strainer or funnel (or combination of both).

44

Champagne cooler. At least one. It always looks good, and can be used as a flower pot during the off"season.

Cork extractor (three pronged type are favourite). This is a tool made specially for getting a cork out of an empty bottle which you may wish to keep, if accidentally the cork has been pushed down into it. The samejob can be done, however, by dropping a loop of thin twine lengthways over the offending cork, and tilting the bottle up so that it can be manoeuvred and pulled out. Should it be the cork that is needed, climb to the top of Nelson's Column, drop the bottle, hurry down, and the cork can be picked up quite easily. Please note—keep an eye on the pigeons! Miscellaneous list of"Must Haves". One can opener or a gadgetfor opening tins offruitjuices; one nutmeg grater; an ample supply of Mossers, cherry sticks, drinking straws,stirrers (plastic or glass, for serving with Old Fashioned cocktails), drip mats (or coasters), paper serviettes,regular and plentiful supply ofclean glass- cloths; special dusters and cloths for cleaning ashtrays.

Finally, one spare pink elephant justin case any ofyour guests have taken too many aspirins and chased away his or her own particular pet.

45

m

Be a Good Mixer

Everyone's ambition is to have their own cocktail bar at home,for that is the mecca and thesummit ofthe social ladder.I knew a fellow whoonce installed one in his study. He had the grand idea that it would save him expense,and instead ofspending money at his local club, he would buy his drinks from his own bar at home. And being the only customer he would not need a liquor licence. He gave his wife^21 to buya case ofwhisky.Now,there are 216 doubles in a case,so he bought them from his wife at 5/- each, and in twelve days when the case was finished, his wife had £54 with which she bought another case. She put the remaining profit of in the bank and then he started all over again. Ten years later my friend died, and his wife had roughly £y,7oo on deposit—which was enough to bury

47

him respectably, bring up his children, pay off the mort gage, then marry again,and do her best to forget that she ever knew myfriend. That is the end ofmysad little story. The moral is, my friend wasn't a good mixer. In fact, he knew nothing ofthe golden rules which would help make him so. Therefore let usrun through thesecretcode on how to be one. 1. Ice. There are many schools ofthought about whether it should go in first or after the blend is in the shaker. We favour placing it in first, because in this way it chills each ingredient as added; also if dropped in afterwards, it is apt to overflow precious liquor, should the amount have been over-estimated. Ice itself must not look like frozen snowballs. It should be hard, crystal clear, pure and untainted. Beware about the latter because ice is readily susceptible to neighbourly flavours and if positioned in the fridge too close to the kippers someone is going to get real "fishy" cocktails. 2. Measuring. Study the recipe carefully and carry out the measurements correctly.Too much ofone ortoo little ofthe other will result in a drink with little resemblance to the original idea. 3. Shaking. Never fill the shaker more than three quarters full. There must be plenty of room inside for the ice to torment the ingredients, thereby blending them into a very happy family. 4. Shaker action. Shake naturally with a short, sharp, snappy movement, and for not too long—no more than 10-15 seconds. But for sours, noggs and those type of drinks you can really put your shoulders behind it, any thing up to 25 seconds. The reason for notshaking for too long is thatthe ice will melt quickly with the vibrations and therefore will dilute the drink beyond the standard fit for human consumption.

48

5- Stirring. Never shake recipes which call for stirring. The reason for this is that the gentle stir mixes the drinks crystal clear; if they are shaken the various cells are broken up and the cocktail looks cloudy. 6. Temperature. In the summer time chill the cocktail glasses, so that the drinks going into them will remain afew degrees above freezing. In the winter, warm the glasses keeping the drinks a stage below lava hotness. 7. Serving. Never let cocktails stand too long in the glass before drinking or they will become "tired" and the in gredients are inclined to separate—the heaviest will sink towards the bottom. This indicates another tip when pouring out. Line the glasses up like soldiers then com mence by halffilling the first and so on all down the line, arriving at the end. Return to the first in the rank and complete the operation. This will ensure that all the cocktails have the same potency. 8. Eye appeal. The eye is the alert watchdog ofthe palate, and if the drink looks good then that is half way towards pleasing the other organs "down under". So make the drink really attractive, and use plenty of fresh looking fruit when the recipe calls for it. 9. Sweetening. When a drink calls for additional sweeten ing, it is advisable to use gomme syrup if available, as it mixes instantaneously, but if sugar is especially stated, then on no account use confectioner's icing sugar. The two types to bank on are castor and granulated. It is quite simple to make a gomme syrup for home use. Just fill a container with granulated sugar, then pour on boiling water and stir thoroughly until completely dissolved, then allow to cool. Should honey be called for, always dissolve it before mixing. 10. Ingredients. Your tailor could never make you a good suit out ofcheap materials. This applies to cocktails. Poor

49

ingredients will give poor results. When the recipe calls for eggs, be careful because Mrs. Hen sometimes has her own little joke, and it will be on you if you let it plop straight into the drink. Therefore, break the egg in a separate container for examination just in case. There are several ways ofseparating the yolk from the white, if one hasn't a specially designed gadget for doing so. (a) Should only a little egg white be required, bore a small hole in the shell and shake out the amount needed. The hole can then be resealed with sellotape if necessary, (b)Ifall the white is required, break the egg into a saucer, place the bowl of a cocktail glass over the yolk and hold the stem firmly. Then tilt the saucer allowing the white to slide smoothly into the shaker, (c) Finally, the expert's way. Crack the shell sharply and cleanly on the edge of the shaker, split it into two halves and allow the white to fall into the shaker by passing the yolk only from one half shell to the other. If unsuccessful at the first attempt, wipe the cat's face, your trousers and shoes, then try again. II. Frosting. A rather misleading term as it is nothing actually to do with icing. It merely means to moisten the drinking rim of the glass with a piece oflemon, and then dip the prepared edge into a powdered sugar. It will appear like a Christmas tree decoration. Now on to how to be a blender.

50

The Harmony of Blending

Some paper,some wood and some coal,and soon we have a fire fit to roast the extei-ior of our bodies to perfection. Unfortunately nature has not granted us the power to turn ourselves inside out whereby we can warm up our inner most parts, but she has unbended a little inasmuch as we have the means to take in certain central heating in the form ofdelectable liquid fire.

51

Thus we must approve of nature's whim,and appraise her for giving us a little grey matter with which to seek out these mysterious blendings which will bring forth this nectar of gods for inner warmth. Firstly, it will be well to heed that this noble art of blending calls for considerable skill. It is truly heathen to take bottles at random just because they have nice looking labels, which could give us a conglomeration of ingredients fit only for a witches' cauldron. The essential secret of the cocktail's make-up is the harmony of the blend in which no ingredient is pre dominant, so that it leaves the drinker pondering on its hidden mystery and looking forward to another. Returning to the outside warmth giving fire, our searchings find that we can adopt the same formula for internal combustion. Whereas to start a fire, there is a base of paper,then a layer ofwood tosubdue the burst of flame which will then in turn ignite the coal, we find that the perfect cocktail uses the same combination ofingredients. It too has(a)a base(b)a subduing and stepping-up medium and (c) the character component or flavouring agent. The base is therefore the ingredient which gives the first burst offire,so it must be the most potent,and this calls for a strong spirit which should be at least 50% of the volume ofthe drink. Here again, a word of warning—use a single spirit. You cannot hope to makea palatable drink by mixing two different types of spirits, such as rum and whisky or gin and brandy together. Another point to bear in mind is that the spirit hmits the ehoice ofthe other ingredients. For instance, whilst gin will blend with most things as it is fairly tasteless,one will probably find difficulty with rum or whisky as a base, when trying to get other agents to mix happily with them.

52

The subduing or stepping-up medium can be as much as 33Yi% ofthe volume ofthe drink. It is sometimes slightly alcoholic,like an aperitifwine,or a completely non alcoholic liquid, generally a pure fruit juice or milk,cream or eggs. Whatever the choice, it must not be too much ofa mixture, for its purpose is to tone down the strong liquor base and act as a step-up to the flavouring agent. Therefore it must not be too highly flavoured in itself, but one which will accept the domination of the final ingredient. It is worth mentioning that fruit juices are always popular as a subduing medium because they blend well with most spirit bases. They will also rarely clash with the flavouring agent —but the aromatic (herbal) aperitif wines will blend in more satisfactorily with the liqueurs ofa like nature. Finally, the "character component" or "flavouring agent", is mostly alwaysaliqueur ofsome kind,or even two, providing they will not fight amongstthemselves—one will find in most cases that the fruit flavoured liqueurs like Cointreau, Grand Marnier, or Orange Curacao, are ideal companions; so is Creme de Noyaux with Maraschino as these liqueurs are of similar flavours. Should adventure overrule common sense, and one delves into the unknown, with bottles of Creme de Cacao, Drambui and Creme de Menthe, then beware, and cancel all dinner appointments for the next few days. The cocktail should never contain more than 25% of liqueur as a flavouring agent, sometimes it even drops to about 15% of the drink's volume. In fact the more highly flavoured it is the more sparingly it should be used. After- dinner cocktails are the only exceptions, where the qualities of the liqueurs are needed for an aid to digestion. These

53

can then contain anything from 25% to 100%.But to have such a drink before a meal would be on par with eating a nice hunk ofchocolate gateau. Hardly an ideal appetiser. There are,ofcourse,several other flavouringingredients besides liqueurs. One, for example, as in the case of the Clover Club Cocktail; the flavouring agent is Grenadine. Other syrups such as Cassis, Framboise,Fraises are all used considerably in other drinks. With regard to the aperitif cocktail, the formula is drastically cut down,for here the need is for a quick burst of flame to warm up the hunger buds. So the base is stepped up, anything from 50% to 80% of the total volume, and the toning down agent and the flavouring component combine forces and become one. And in most cases it appears as an aperitif wine, or in others just a pure fruit juice. Here again, there are exceptions to the rule, be cause some aperitif cocktails are just a blend of aromatic wines, such as Vermouths, Dubonnet, Lillet, or even sherries, and will contain no spirits of any kind except those which fortify the actual wine. There is one very important ingredient mostly used in aperitif cocktails, which so far has been neglected. I am referring to the Dash Family of Bitters. These are very sensitive little people, and expertly used will impart a special delightful flavour and fragrance to a drink. But misused with a heavy hand, the whole character of the cocktail wiU be completely ruined. Therefore be ye warned when a"dash"is stated in a recipe. It meansone tinyliquid globlet from the special sprinkler and not a teaspoonful. These bitters fall into two categories (a) aromatic, such as Angostura and Peychaud,etc.;(b)fruit flavoured,ofwhich Orange and Peach are the most popular.

54