1936 Shaking in the 60's by Eddie Clarke

sonal affection. At my first wine-tasting, over thirty years ago,I commented on a wine from Monthelie as being "red colour and nice", against which the examiner wrote "we must tell the French at once!" In later years, despite this caustic comment,we became very great friends and on his retirementfrom a long associa tion with the Wine Trade, a banquet was given in his honour, to which I was invited. A Monthelie was served, presumably as a stalking-horse to the Clos de Vougeot 1945 that followed. After tasting the wine, he held the glciss towards me and said,"Herbert, you were right, red colour and nice!" The magic ofMeursault draws us on;its great whites are inclined to overshadow its excellent reds,one ofthem indeed is accredited to Volnay!So much has been said through the ages on the merits of the Meursault white wines, may we with all humility,just bend the knee to Perri^res, Charmes, Genevriferes, Boucheres and Goutte-d'Or. Fruity but dry, with that delightful greenish-golden hue,second only to the great Le Montrachet that is here aboutand dealt with next. Situated in the parishes ofChassagne and Puligny,this wine is above classification, its amber colour is money's worth alone. Full-bodied, powerful and dry with a delicious smoothness,it is the best ofthe Burgundy whites. Chassagne also gives up other dry white wines of great quality; Batard-Montrachet,lighter than the great Montrachet, but at times just as fruity, also Chassagne-Montrachet, a red with the same title is no sluggard either! Apartfrom ajoint hand in Le Montrachet and Batard, Puligny produces a white wine of its own name, it is light but of fine quality. Here,too,is the renowned Ghevaliei-Montrachet,but there is no doubt of the order of merit of the top whites: Le Montrachet an easy first. Chevalier-Montrachet second, with Batard-Montrachet third.

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