1936 Shaking in the 60's by Eddie Clarke

A red wine which is drunk when cold, will bear no resemblance to the same wine at the correct temperature, and therefore it could not possibly be fully appreciated. Often when dining in a public restaurant, one does not always have time to order the wine in advance, mainly because the host is never certain what his guests may choose to eat, and unless the establishment has not paid enough attention to its storage, the wine waiter sometimes resorts to most drastic and unnatural means ofwarming the wines. The most deplorable method adopted by an unexperienced understudy waiter, is to run the hot water tap over the bottle. This shock treatment will most likely completely destroy the character ofthe wine,for the correct way is to warm it gradually so that the entire contents of the bottle will receive the same process and for the same time. However, most establishments are very wine conscious and therefore the storage receives a high priority so there is little fear of a wine reaching the table at a temperature unfit for drinking. Having then assured the preparation of the wine, the server will carry it with careful reverence to the right ofthe host and pour for the said gentleman about a third of a glass. The host's palate by all the rules must be clear, clean and untainted (not even with a slight inhalement ofa hasty cigarette). In fact, he should break offa little bread,and munch at it to make doubly sure that his tasting buds are all tuned up. Now he will hold the wine up to the light and judge its brilliance, clearness and colour, then being satisfied in that respect, he will cup the glass in his hands and wait a moment for the warmth of these useful members to pene trate through the glass. Next with a gentle circular motion he will move the wine around the bottom ofthe glass and bending his head

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