1936 Shaking in the 60's by Eddie Clarke

To forestall any shouts about Chateau Haut-Bi-ion, which is sometimes included in the first growths, may it be said that this noble wine is from the Graves district and should not, therefore, appear in the classification of wines from the Medoc. When classifying the great white wines ofSauternes, the sumptuous Chateau d'Yquem, the finest white wine of its kind in the world, was awarded a special place ofits own as the Premier Grand Gru above the first growths. A warning —"Gru Exceptionnel" on a Bordeaux label does not mean it is superior to a classified growth, merely a fancy title for a bourgeois growth. The red wines of Bordeaux are drier than those of Burgundy and, by and large, they need longer in bottle. In this respect, the foremost Chateau in Bordeaux produce wines that, in good years,just have to be kept to maturity for one to appreciate their great charm. Surely it is a truism that a poor Burgundy will not show up quite as badly as a poor Claret. The finest Claret comes from four districts of the Bordeaux area, the Medoc, Graves, Pomerol and St. Emilion. Each is divided into communes,the best in Medoc for instance are St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien and Margaux. There is enormous scope for buying a bargain in red Bordeaux wines. Little known vineyards produce, in good years, some excellent wines at low cost. These by classification standards, are not much more thought ofthan "vin ordinaire" but keep them in bottle for five or six years and they drink amazingly well. Vintages 1955, 1957 and 1959 were typical for this kind ofthing and there will, no doubt, be similar years in the future. The white wines of Bordeaux incorporate the heavenly d'Yquem already mentioned,together with Sauternes which is divided into Barsac, Bommes, Preignac and Fargues produce sweet wines ranging down from the very great to

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